The mother-and-son team of Margarita Blas and Carlos Mendez Blas…
make the spirits you will find in our bottles, and they make these spirits in a traditional way, using their five senses. It is one of the things that makes many mezcals and mezcal producers — maestros — so unique in the world of spirits
all alcohol begins life as sugar
The sugar source used to make every other alcohol you drink takes a maximum of six months to reach maturity. The grapes used to make the finest wines, the grains used to make the finest Scotch, the cane used to make the finest rums … none of these takes more than six months to reach maturity. But the sugars used to make mezcal come from the agave plant, and the fastest-growing agave varietal — the Blue Weber agave — takes a minimum of four years to reach maturity. Four years! And the Tepextate agave that Margarita and Carlos harvest to make their 100% Tepextate Mezcal can take up to 25 years to reach maturity.
The result is a far more complex sugar, with far more aromatic elements. And those complexities reveal themselves in the end flavors of the spirit.
Sugar is not the only thing that sets small mezcal producers apart from other spirits makers.
Once those agave are harvested, they have to be prepared for fermentation.
Like many of their peers, Margarita and Carlos roast their agave in stone-lined, earthen ovens. The oven is heated with wood fire for 12 hours before the agave are piled in and covered up with dirt, left to
roast underground for five days.
The roasted agave hearts are then milled, to release the caramelized sugars.
This is done by a tahona — a stone wheel, pulled by a horse. This method of milling is much less efficient than a wood chipper. But Margarita and Carlos are not looking for efficiency — they are looking for flavor. And leaving some of the harder-to-reach sugars behind means leaving behind some of the less complex flavors.
The juice and fibers from the milled agave are then collected and placed in open-air, wooden barrels, where water is added.
This is where fermentation starts — where yeast begins to eat the sugars and produce alcohol and CO2.
With almost every other alcohol you consume, this process is done in a closed system, and a specific yeast is added. The reason for this is two-fold: the yeast is added so that the distiller can better ensure a consistent flavor in their alcohol, and the system is closed to keep out wild yeasts and the bacteria that consumes alcohol and turns it into acetic acid, more commonly known as vinegar.
Margarita and Carlos — and their peers making artisanal and ancestral mezcals — ferment using wild yeasts in an open-air environment so that each batch tastes unique.
During one season, the avocado trees on their property will be budding, and the predominant yeast will come from there; during another season, it may be the yeast from the oranges that dominates.
And that bacteria that wants to turn the entire batch into vinegar? It gets its foot in the door, adding flavor, too. A little bit of sour helps balance the sweetness of the agave.
Once fermentation is where Margarita and Carlos want it to be, they quickly to get the liquid distilled. The fermented juice that isn't being worked in the still is sitting in that open-air fermenter … changing every minute. The fermenters hold 2,000 liters and the still only holds 350 liters, so there's no room for delay, and no sleep until everything has been run through the still once — that often means maestros are awake for 24 to 48 hours straight, distilling.